May has always been a time for celebration in Wales. It marks the moment that farmers would move their flocks up onto the mountains from the valley floor, and move to the hafod – the summer dwelling (haf means summer in Welsh) – from the hendre – the winter dwelling (hen means old).
I’ve been nosing about in my books for some early May traditions in Wales. The one that caught my eye the most was about the twmpath. I know a twmpath as being a celebration of singing and dancing, usually with a band – a bit like a Scottish ceilidh. What I didn’t know is its origin. It comes from twmpath chwarae (play mound). This was mound of earth that would be built up on the green or common land of a town or village, on which a harpist or other musician would sit and entertain the crowds.
There would also be chwareufa gampau, fun games or competitive feats ranging from physical competitions such as running, jumping and wrestling to arts competitions in music, poetry and dance.
According to Trefor M Owen in Customs and Traditions of Wales (1991):
“In Glamorgan, the summer recreational meeting was the taplas haf (revels), which began on Easter Monday and was held every Saturday until All Hallows’ Day. Two printed handbills have survived, which relate to the ‘gambols’ or sports, in this tradition, held over three days in June 1780, in Llangyfelach, near Swansea, consisting of races of all kinds, shooting at a mark, ‘flinging the bar’, bandy and football matches, as well as intriguing competitions such as ‘old women’s grinning match’”.
I must admit, it does sound intriguing and perhaps shines a small light onto Welsh humour.
Other May Day festival traditions included canu haf (summer singing), which involved singers going from door to door early in the morning. They would sing simple folk songs in exchange for food and drink, not dissimilar to the wassail, Mari Lwyd or carol singing. May poles and dancing were also popular, often made from birch wood and carried from village to village.
The eve of May Day was also considered ysbrydnos (sprit night), where it was believed – much like Halloween – that the veil between this world and the supernatural was at its thinnest, and so it was not unusual to see bonfires with the aim of cleansing the earth. Painting white crosses on doorways was also supposed to protect your house from witches.
Hawthorn branches were used to frame and decorate doorways, although their blossoms were strictly prohibited from entering the house, as they would bring bad luck. Rosemary bouquets were gifted to loved ones by secret admirers. I rather like the idea of using this natural spring harvest – even if just for flirting.
For me and my pantry, May means bright, fresh flavours, wonderfully crunchy green tastes and earthy salads. It’s the time of year for spring lamb, Pembrokeshire early potatoes, watercress, spring onions and fragrant garden herbs. I’m using fresh rosemary from my balcony garden in the recipe below – I don’t quite have enough for a bouquet!
The Recipe
Clementine and rosemary cake
Anyone who knows me will testify that I love sweet and savoury together. Yes, I am the one to put pineapple on pizza, tangy cheddar on fruit-laced Welsh cakes, and jam and Marmite on the same piece of toast. Don’t knock it until you’ve tried it. This recipe is not quite that extreme, but it does pair that lovely earthy floral nature of fresh rosemary with gloriously sweet oranges to make a moist sponge-like cake that keeps well. I also love it as it uses the whole fruit pith and all, so there’s no waste. Try to choose oranges with thinnish peel.
Ingredients (Serves 10)
3 unwaxed clementines /satsumas/small oranges
200g caster sugar
200g butter
275g flour
3 free-range eggs
3 sprigs fresh rosemary, leaves finely chopped
1tbsp honey for glazing
Method
Fill a small saucepan with water and pop in the clementines. Cover with a lid, bring to the boil and then simmer for about 20 minutes until the oranges are completely soft. Remove them from the pan and allow to cool.
Preheat the oven to Gas Mark 4/180°C/350°F. Line a small loaf tin with baking parchment.
Cut the clementines in half and remove any pips. Blitz the soft oranges in a blender or food processor very quickly – you still want a bit of pulp. You can also do this with a combination of two sharp knives and a fork.
Pop all the orange pulp and any juice into a large mixing bowl. Add all the other ingredients except the honey and mix thoroughly until you have a smooth, dollopy cake mixture flecked with orange and rosemary.
Spoon the mix into the prepared tin and place in the oven for around 45-50 minutes until well risen and a skewer comes out pretty clean when inserted.
Remove from the oven allow to cool for 10 minutes in the tin before transferring to a cooling rack.
Brush the top with honey while the cake is still warm. Slice and enjoy with a cuppa.
If you try it out, don’t forget to tag any photos with #mywelshkitchen
The Playlist
To me, cooking and music go hand in hand, whether that’s singing at the top of your voice using a wooden spoon as a microphone while waiting for pasta to boil, or dancing around with the oven gloves on as the oven timer counts down. Here are this week’s ideas for your Welsh Kitchen playlist.
First up on the playlist this issue is (appropriately) Ysbryd Y Nos by Rhydian. Secondly, we have the Britain’s Got Talent audition by Johns’ Boys Male Chorus from Rhosllannerchrugog in North Wales, who blew the judges away with their rendition Biblical by Calum Scott.
Ysbryd Y Nos by Rhydian
Biblical by Johns’ Boys Male Chorus
My month in food
This month has ranged from making a birthday cake of Welsh cakes for a friend’s big birthday, soupy rice, ensaimadas, and squid ink croquetas in Menorca, tasting 60+ products as a judge for the Guild of Fine Foods Great Taste Awards, an immersive dining experience with the Visit Biscay, fantastic fresh fish and papas arrugadas in Gran Canaria, and finally a right royal buffet back in Wales.