Weird and Wonderful Flavour Combinations
Welsh Crab and Leek Croquetas Recipe
“A little nonsense now and then is relished by the wisest men,” or so says one of my all-time favourite literary characters, Willy Wonka. As you might have gathered – since the very first newsletter – I like to experiment in the kitchen, with recipes, methods and flavours. I can guarantee you that not all of them work, but the trial and error of invention in the kitchen does often lead to extraordinary results.
I’m a huge fan of sweet and savoury together, but even the most ardent Marmite fans raise a perplexed eyebrow when I say that Marmite and jam on toast (yes, on the same slice) is one of my favourite breakfasts. Something about the very savoury, saltiness of the Marmite and the fruity sweetness of the jam just play off each other. Thankfully, I am not alone. When I once prepared this for brekkie, my new flatmate exclaimed, “You like Jarmite as well!” (Who knew there was even a name for it?!) – Thanks Cleo.
The subject came up again this week and it got me thinking about other curious culinary combinations. Cheese with fruit is a common one. You’d never put lemon juice with milk (not unless you’re making leicecs), and yet we pair cheese with apple, grapes, dates, watermelon and more. I’ve made it a mission in recent years to get people to eat gloriously salty, squeaky halloumi cheese drizzled with honey. I guess it’s that salty-sweet interaction again that hits the right note as it dances over my taste buds.
I wonder who thought of first putting mint with roast lamb or apple on roast pork, pairing salt and vinegar, or jelly and custard? Because it doesn’t just have to be flavours, food textures can clash too with deliciously satisfying results. For me, a fish finger sandwich in soft white bread needs the crispy crunch of iceberg lettuce, and yet trifle can’t have fruit in it because in my mind, you shouldn’t need to chew any part of it.
I’ll leave you pondering your favourite flavour fusions (and please let me know what they are so I can try them) while I go and eat my Friday fish and chips, complete with a dollop of tartare sauce, you know, mayonnaise mixed with gherkins, capers and lemon juice always served with fish – not weird at all!
The Recipe
Welsh Crab and Leek Croquetas
Last week, I had the most delightful holiday by the seaside in Porthcawl on the South Wales coast – bliss after so long in lockdown and the furthest this travel-writer-by-trade has ventured in months. Being by the coast means tucking into all the seafood I can lay my chip-grease-shiny fingers on. One of the glories of the Welsh coast, from Carmarthenshire to Conwy, is the availability of fresh crab. I love it on its own, in salads, risotto, pretty much anything, but in the essence of flavour and food fusion, I decided to try it as the filling for Spanish-style croquetas with the fresh sweetness of leeks. Glorious Welsh ingredients with a little Spanish flair.
I tend to make croquetas in batches and freeze half to use another time. They are ideal as a starter, a side for a barbecue or as part of a selection of tapas. They are a little time consuming so you need to plan ahead, but believe me, they are oh-so worth it!
Ingredients (makes 20)
100g (1 small) leek, finely chopped
50g butter
100g plain (all-purpose) flour
450ml milk
100g cooked crab meat (I like a mix of brown and white)
1 egg, lightly beaten
75g Panko breadcrumbs (or any breadcrumbs you have)
Sunflower/vegetable oil for deep-frying
Zest of a lemon
Method
Melt the butter in a medium-sized saucepan and then add the leeks. Cook for a few minutes until the leeks have begun to soften.
Tip in 50g of the flour and beat to combine. Cook the flour mix for a minute or two.
Gradually add the milk bit-by-bit and whisk to combine thoroughly after each addition.
When you’ve got a smooth béchamel sauce, tip in the crab and season with salt and pepper. Let the mix bubble a little to thicken up. If you are using brown crab, it’ll turn a lovely pink colour.
Line a baking tray with greaseproof paper and tip the mixture in, flattening it out with a spatula. Cover with cling film making sure it touches the surface of the mix. Chill in the fridge for at least an hour (but ideally several hours) until it has become firm, a bit like jelly (jello to my American readers).
Take it out of the fridge, remove the cling film and flip it onto a chopping board dusted with flour. Remove the baking paper (it should come off easily) and dust the top with flour.
Prepare three bowls, one with the rest of the flour, one with the beaten egg, and the third with the breadcrumbs.
Cut the jelly-like mix into 20 squares. Cover your hands with olive oil and make balls with each square of mix using your palms. They should be roughly walnut size or a bit smaller than a golf ball.
Dip each ball in flour, then egg, and then roll it in the breadcrumbs. Place back on the baking sheet. Chill them again until you’re ready to eat, or freeze them in a container to use again.
When you’re ready to eat them, heat the oil in a deep saucepan on a medium-high heat. Carefully lower the croquetas into the hot oil and cook for around 2-3 minutes, making sure to turn them so the outside is golden. You’ll know if they’re in there too long as the filling will start to leak out.
Remove with a slotted spoon and dab with kitchen paper. Sprinkle with the lemon zest and serve.
If you try the recipe out, don’t forget to tag any photos with #mywelshkitchen.
The Playlist
To me, cooking and music go hand in hand, whether that’s singing at the top of your voice using a wooden spoon as a microphone while waiting for pasta to boil, or dancing around with the oven gloves on as the oven timer counts down. Here are this week’s ideas for your Welsh Kitchen playlist.
Talking of Spain, the first track this week is by the Manic Street Preachers and its lyrics echo the sentiments of the many Welsh volunteers who went to Spain to fight against Franco and the Nationalist forces during the Spanish Civil War. The second is a lighter number by Cardiff’s own Shakin’ Stevens – shake those hips around your kitchen!
If You Tolerate This Your Children Will Be Next by Manic Street Preachers
This Ole House by Shakin’ Stevens
The Pantry
Good food is nothing without good ingredients and thankfully there are plenty of fantastic Welsh products on the market. Here is where you’ll find recommendations to stock up your cupboard, fridge or fruit bowl.
Oak Smoked Water
In the essence of experimentation, I first stumbled across this smoked water at the launch of Discover Delicious Wales. Without wanting to state the obvious, it is smoky flavoured water. It has the most gloriously intense woody aroma and taste and is ideal for adding to casseroles for extra depth or whiskey-based cocktails to add even more oomph. It’s a little on the pricey size but a little goes a long way and it comes in a perfect-for-kitchen-wizardry medicine bottle with pipette.