Hafod and Hendre
Cawl Cennin – Leek Soup
Being a bit of a language nerd, the roots and origins of words and names always interests me. Let’s take three words beginning with ‘p’ for example. Penguin is thought to come from the Welsh pen gwyn (white head) referring to how Welsh seafarers described the birds when they first saw them. Pikelet – the crumpet-like griddle bread – is thought to get its name from Welsh bara pyglyd (pitchy bread). And lastly, the area of Penge in South East London is thought to derive from the Celtic pen ceat (edge/top of the wood), the same root as Pencoed in Wales.
Travelling through Wales you’ll see countless places named Hafod. And where there is a Hafod, there is usually a Hendre – and with good reason. You see, hill farming in Wales stretches back centuries – Welsh Black beef cattle is one of the oldest breeds in the UK – and Welsh mountain sheep have long been reared for their wool, milk and meat. During much of this time, farmers practised the traditional hafod-hendre system – essentially moving between two dwellings for different parts of the year.
During the colder autumn and winter months, the farmer and family would reside at the hendre (hen-dre, old home/dwelling) in the valley, having driven the herds down to the warmer lowlands to graze. When the spring came with its better weather and fresh pasture, the farmer (and often the whole family) would move the heard up into the hills and take residence at the hafod (haf-bod, summer dwelling), allowing crops to be grown in the lowlands. The hafod-hendre system has long since died out but the names still remain as a nice reminder of this traditional food and livestock cultivation.
The Recipe
Cawl Cennin – Leek Soup
When I was on my year abroad in Gran Canaria, my dear friend and fellow Welshie Caroline would often pop over for lunch. One time – even though the weather outside must have been around 28°C – I decided to make this leek soup. Suffice to say, it gave us both a little warm glow of home. The next day, I remember eating the leftovers cold – like you would gazpacho – sprinkled with half crunchy croutons. Half crunchy because the stale bread cubes I’d put in the oven were drying out nicely until our bombona (Calor Gas bottle) ran out and the gas man wasn’t due for another two days.
Sadly, climes are not quite so warm at the moment in Wales, and as we are all currently in our hendre, this winter warmer seems apt. The delicate fresh sweetness of the leeks really comes through – and I love the texture and saltiness from the crispy ham. Often the simplest recipes are the best and this is definitely one of them. There are plenty of versions of leek soup and even though I’ve written quantities for the ingredients here, the recipe is very flexible. I often throw in a bit of bendy celery and a carrot if I find them in the bottom of the salad drawer.
Ingredients (4-6 servings)
1 rasher of bacon
Knob of butter (about 25g) or good splash of olive oil
350g leeks (about 3 medium)
700g potatoes (about 3 medium)
500ml hot white stock made from two stock cubes (I use a mix of ham and vegetable, but you can use chicken if you prefer)
200ml milk or cream
3 slices of Carmarthen ham (or Serrano, Parma ham)
To make this veggie, you can easily leave out the bacon and ham. Traditionally, soups and stews in Wales were thickened using an oatmeal paste, so switching out the dairy for oat milk is not at all out of place if you want to make this vegan.
Method
Snip the bacon up using scissors (I find this easier than cutting with a knife) into a large saucepan placed over a medium heat drizzled with a little oil. While it’s gently frying away, roughly chop the whites of the leeks into half moons by splitting the leek lengthways and then slicing. Make sure to rinse it thoroughly to get any soil out from between the pieces. Add to the saucepan along with the butter and reduce the heat to low.
Meanwhile, peel and roughly chop the potatoes and rinse. When the leeks have softened and are almost taking on colour, add the potatoes and a pinch of salt.
Pour in the stock and bring to the boil.
Lower the heat, cover and simmer for around 20 minutes until the potatoes are crumbly soft.
Take off the heat and allow to cool slightly.
Blend using a stick blender or food processor until just smooth.
Put back onto a low heat and add the milk or cream and stir until warmed through, but don’t allow it to boil.
Meanwhile, place the Carmarthen ham slices on a baking sheet under a hot grill until crisp.
Serve the soup in a bowl and crumble the crispy ham over the top. Finish with a good pinch of black pepper and enjoy with some hot buttered toast or bara planc (more on this next week!)
Freshly snipped chives are also nice as a topping or the crisper green parts of the leek. Or instead of the ham, try crumbling over some blue cheese – such as Perl Las.
If you try it out, don’t forget to tag any photos with #mywelshkitchen
The Playlist
To me, cooking and music go hand in hand, whether that’s singing at the top of your voice using a wooden spoon as a microphone while waiting for pasta to boil, or dancing around with the oven gloves on as the oven timer counts down. Here are this week’s ideas for your Welsh Kitchen playlist.
I started back at choir rehearsals this week, albeit virtually, and was reminded of the time we were waiting for the choir competition results at the National Eisteddfod of Wales in 2018, and the entire audience spontaneously burst into song. The tune, Rachie, has been in my head all week.
The Voice started back on ITV this week too, and with it, glorious impromptu singing by Sir Tom Jones. His collaboration with the Stereophonics back in 1999 is still one of my faves.
Rachie by London Welsh Male Voice Choir
Mama Told Me Not To Come by Tom Jones and the Stereophonics
The Pantry
Good food is nothing without good ingredients and thankfully there are plenty of fantastic Welsh products on the market. Here is where you’ll find recommendations to stock up your cupboard, fridge or fruit bowl.
Tiny Rebel
It has to be one of Wales’s biggest success stories over the past few years, and the fact that they are based and brew up in my hometown makes it even better. Tiny Rebel started life in a garage in 2012 and has grown and grown to become an award-winning brewery. Try their famous Cwtch red ale for malty citrus notes and a pleasantly fruity hug. It’s also vegan and comes in a cool psychedelic can. Or if you happen to find yourself in Newport or Cardiff, head to one of their bars for a pint of the good stuff and a side of pizza.