“Gentle Reader,
As the present work is intended for the especial benefit of those of gentle birth who may not have any very extensive knowledge if economy in domestic practice, and as the Hero of the accompanying annals belonged to the last century, the commencement of this Introductory Epistle is not misplaced; and the Author has adopted the present form, including dialogue remarks, annotations, and explanations, from experience of facts, which tend to prove that the multiplication of Cookery Books in the common plan had very little increased the amount of knowledge of the fundamental principles of the real art of Cookery and Domestic Economy. Whether the Master of the Cell of Gover will be more successful than his predecessors in awakening the minds of the present generation to the necessity of understanding themselves what ought to be done, and what avoided, to ensure a well-cooked dish, time alone will show!”
This is the opening to one of the most comprehensive, yet eccentric and confusing Welsh cookbooks ever written. The First Principles of Good Cookery was written by The Right Honourable Lady Llanover in 1867, and is as much an intriguing story as it is a practical domestic handbook.
Augusta Waddington (Hall) was considered one of the most prominent advocates of Welsh culture, language and traditions in the 19th century – yet many did not consider her to be truly Welsh. She was aristocratic by birth, travelled and studied extensively, and was married to the politician, peer and reformer Benjamin Hall of Abercarn and Hensol. And yet, her knowledge and skill in domestic household affairs and cookery was exceptional for a woman of her standing. It’s believed that she was taught much of what appears in Good Cookery by her mother, who in turn had been taught by her aunt, Mary Granville (Mrs Delany). It’s notable that many of the recipes and methods are 18th century rather than Victorian.
Augusta and Benjamin (the Ben of ‘Big Ben’ bell tower fame) were well known for their hospitality, and seemingly forever entertaining at their beloved Llanover House – where Lady Llanover insisted on Welsh being spoken (she had learned it to such sufficient fluency as an adult, that she could easily conduct her business affairs), Welsh traditional dress being worn, and insisting Welsh be taught at the schools in Llanover. It seems that the servants of the house had been taught by Augusta herself, so when guests remarked on how wonderful the food was, they were – often unbeknown to them – eating one of their host’s own recipes.
The food was so well thought of at Llanover that her friends encouraged Augusta to write a book, which is how Good Cookery came about. Perhaps not wanting to truly admit that it was either her own complete knowledge (or that of her great aunt), the book tells the tale of a young traveller in search of a decent flavoursome meal as he makes his way through Wales. He stumbles upon the Hermit of the Cell of St Gover, who happens to know how to cook and prepare meals with incredible taste and economy, from boiled fowl to chicken and leek pie, rice pudding to ‘soup for poor people’.
From what I have learned of Lady Llanover, it certainly seems to be her no-nonsense voice coming though in the hermit, but I guess we will never know for sure. Augusta died in 1896 but left behind an incredible legacy, helping to found Llandovery College, starting the Welsh language women's magazine Y Gymraes, contributing and championing the Eisteddfod tradition, and infamously closing of all the pubs on the Llanover Estate due to her temperance beliefs.
What she left in Good Cookery was an absolute record of Welsh life, hospitality and cuisine at a period where many Welsh traditions were being lost.
“If the Hermit only convinces a few persons, who desire to benefit their fellow-creatures, that those who want food might be benefited to an enormous extent, were it not for the ignorance of the majority of those who have enough, in matters of practical utility, the knowledge of which would prevent the destruction of millions of tons of the best food, this little book will not have been written in vain.”
The Recipe
Baked Apple Dumplings
I thought we’d give one of the Hermit’s recipes a go this week, albeit updated to the 21st century. The original recipe makes the pastry or ‘paste’ from scratch, and omits the dried fruit – but I think it adds a little something. I think Granny Smith apples work best, but any regular eating apple would work. Cooking apples will need a touch longer in the oven due to their size.
Ingredients (makes 3, serves 3-6)
3 Granny Smith apples
Juice of half a lemon
1 block of ready-made shortcrust pastry
Handful of sultanas (or other dried fruit)
2 tsp dark brown sugar (or whatever sugar you have)
1 free-range egg (or a splash of milk)
2 tsp caster sugar
Method
Preheat the oven to Gas Mark 4/350°F/180°C.
Peel and core the apples, and then rub all over with the lemon juice to stop them browning.
Divide the pastry into three and roll out into rough squares.
Place each apple into the centre of each square of pastry.
Wrap the apple in the pastry and crimp together at the top, but so that the cored hole is still visible.
Gently fill the cavity with a few sultanas, then a little brown sugar and then top with more sultanas.
Beat the egg lightly and then brush all over the pastry, sprinkle with caster sugar and place on a baking tray lined with greaseproof/baking paper.
Bake in the oven for around 35 minutes until the pastry is crisp and the apple soft.
You can serve these on their own – it’s a nice surprise when the sultanas and sweet juice falls out when they are broken open with a spoon. Alternatively, cut them in half and serve with custard or cream.
If you try the recipe out, don’t forget to tag any photos with #mywelshkitchen.
The Playlist
To me, cooking and music go hand in hand, whether that’s singing at the top of your voice using a wooden spoon as a microphone while waiting for pasta to boil, or dancing around with the oven gloves on as the oven timer counts down. Here are this week’s ideas for your Welsh Kitchen playlist.
I read this fantastic piece by Jude Rogers yesterday about how the Dunvant Male Choir has kept going over the last year and what it’s meant to them, so first on the playlist this week, is a piece by the gents themselves. Secondly, we have new mellow number from singer Alys Williams.
Ar Hyd y Nos by The Dunvant Male Choir
You by Alys Williams
The Pantry
Good food is nothing without good ingredients and thankfully there are plenty of fantastic Welsh products on the market. Here is where you’ll find recommendations to stock up your cupboard, fridge or fruit bowl.
Rachel’s Organic Yogurt
Now, I’m not the biggest yogurt person, but I can’t get enough of Rachel’s Organic Greek-Style Yogurt with Honey recently. There’s something about its creaminess and the fact it’s not too sweet that just tickles my taste buds, plus the fact you can actually taste the honey, not a honey flavour. Rachel’s has been officially making organic yogurts in West Wales using only local British milk since 1984, but the original farm and recipes date back to early 1900s to Rachel’s grandmother Bessie. They now make lots of different styles of yogurt and rice pudding, but still with the same ethos.